Simplicity 2497: Sewing It Up (Part II)

So . . . this has become an ordeal.  First, voila

That face probably tells you all you need to know.

I finally finished this damn dress.  Guys. . . just. . . whatever.  

Here is my review.

Pattern Description: Misses dress in three lengths with neckline and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing: Misses sizes 4-20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I like the cute sleeve variations.  I do not like the whole size zipper into a pocket thing these Cynthia Rowley patterns seem to dig on.  I also did not like the proportions of the finished product.  I liked the sleeves of view B, but with my

Fabric Used: Rayon blend

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I did a full bust adjustment and added a few inches to the sides, waist, and skirt to make the pattern fit my body.  I outline that saga with a few cusswords and excruciating detail here and also here.  I also lengthened the bodice an inch and a half to make the bodice less empire and installed a center back zipper instead of a side zipper.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? I will sew this again, mostly because I am not terribly happy with my first finished product and the potential for really cute dress-ness is still there. 

Conclusion: I really like the idea of this dress still, but so far not the dress I made.

My specific points of contention with this finished product are as follows:

 

I love these sleeves but. . .

• They add too much bulk to my upper body silhouette.
• They are also much too puffy to layer comfortably, that goes for both variations. 
• The sleeve band is too snug for comfort.
• The armsyce is weird.   (I don't know why or what I even mean here either)
• The neckline gaps a little, against all odds really.
• The waistband is still tilted!  Keep in mind that I picked the entire thing apart and re-cut the bodice to correct this issue. 

I did make some tweaks to make it more wearable.  I removed the original sleeves and re-cut the sleeve lining from view A to make simple cap sleeves instead.  These sleeves will fit inside a jacket or cardigan  which is good because my quick and dirty waistline leveling fix on the back of this dress is far from attractive.

Ultimately, I am giving in on this version of the dress.  I think I made some mistakes here that, even if corrected and executed perfectly, would not result in a staple wardrobe garment.  It's not bad at all.  I've already worn it out once and to a job interview at that. . . but I don't love it. 

Simplicity 2497: Fitting the Pattern

Simplicity 2497 is a Misses pattern sized 4-20.  Since this pattern calls for a woven fabric and does not feature any significant areas of stretchiness, I had to make significant changes to the pattern before I could even attempt a muslin fitting.  How did I know this?  I checked the finished garment measurements on the back of the pattern.

The finished garment measurements can give you a better idea of how much room you might really have in the bust-always a problem area for me.  The size 20 listed a 48 inch finished bust measurement including wearing ease.  There was no way that was going to fit my 44 DDD chest.

In fact, if you are top heavy in the slightest, and by that I mean a C cup or above, you may want to try doing a full bust adjustment.  There are excellent books and online tutorials with pictures as well as youtube demonstrations to show you how to measure and make your adjustments.

As you can see, my FBA added several inches to the bodice area of the dress.  I would say closer to five inches all together.  (Remember, many pattern pieces are doubled or cut on a fold) This FBA also added darts which I may or may not keep in the finished product.  

A good rule of thumb is to fit the most challenging part of the body first.  When it comes to altering patterns, I find that my bra size is much more of a factor than being plus sized and that once I have addressed that area, all remaining necessary alterations seem to flow from that point.  

Once I completed the FBA, I also extended the sides of the bodice front (the orange tissue paper) and the bodice back, and trued up the length of the bodice back (pink tissue paper) with the altered bodice front.

I completed my initial pattern alterations by adding the necessary inches to the waist band and to the skirt panels.

My next post concerning Simplicity 2497 will focus on fitting the muslin, where it will become painfully obvious that I omitted a rather important step while making a completely unnecessary change.

Pattern Haul

I think I've developed a problem.  I can't pass up a.99 cent pattern sale.

You know, when I first started sewing I used to pay full price for these things.  Maybe I just feel like I've been had and I'm trying to get a little of my own back?

I have been had!

First up, the infinite wrap dress.  This is supposed to be an easy pattern but I already have doubts about my ability to do all this wrapping and whatnot.  Yet, I am intrigued.  It's like this twobirds dress right? Except not as fancy and attitudinal.

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Now let's talk about cloches.  I have no idea if these are going to be a Thing or not this winter.  I also suspect that it won't fit over my rather tremendous hair.

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HOWEVER . . .  this particular episode of Ugly Betty. . .

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. . . totally made me want one.