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Wednesday, October 16, 2013
Simplicity 2497: Fitting the Pattern
Simplicity 2497 is a Misses pattern sized 4-20. Since this pattern calls for a woven fabric and does not feature any significant areas of stretchiness, I had to make significant changes to the pattern before I could even attempt a muslin fitting. How did I know this? I checked the finished garment measurements on the back of the pattern.
The finished garment measurements can give you a better idea of how much room you might really have in the bust-always a problem area for me. The size 20 listed a 48 inch finished bust measurement including wearing ease. There was no way that was going to fit my 44 DDD chest.
In fact, if you are top heavy in the slightest, and by that I mean a C cup or above, you may want to try doing a full bust adjustment. There are excellent books and online tutorials with pictures as well as youtube demonstrations to show you how to measure and make your adjustments.
As you can see, my FBA added several inches to the bodice area of the dress. I would say closer to five inches all together. (Remember, many pattern pieces are doubled or cut on a fold) This FBA also added darts which I may or may not keep in the finished product.
A good rule of thumb is to fit the most challenging part of the body first. When it comes to altering patterns, I find that my bra size is much more of a factor than being plus sized and that once I have addressed that area, all remaining necessary alterations seem to flow from that point.
Once I completed the FBA, I also extended the sides of the bodice front (the orange tissue paper) and the bodice back, and trued up the length of the bodice back (pink tissue paper) with the altered bodice front.
I completed my initial pattern alterations by adding the necessary inches to the waist band and to the skirt panels.
My next post concerning Simplicity 2497 will focus on fitting the muslin, where it will become painfully obvious that I omitted a rather important step while making a completely unnecessary change.