Friday, July 22, 2011

Project Wedding Dress-Progress Report

About that wedding dress. . .

I estimate that I have about twenty to thirty hours invested in just the muslin process.  It still isn't perfect, but so far I think it's looking pretty good.

All uncredited photos are my own
The overdress is slightly different from the lining-it is supposed to have more of an empire waist and I decided to also include pockets.

Things to address:
  • The bodice is gaping around the top-still.  I think it is because the cut edges of my muslin fabric are a lot stretchier than I anticipated.  I think I will stabilize my muslin/pattern pieces with fusible interfacing and do stitch them back together for one more bodice fitting.  The sides and bottom are perfect.  Snug but not too tight. 
  • I think I will begin my pleated band an inch or so higher as well.
  • I am considering moving my zipper to a side seam.  This was a bitch to get into by myself simply because my arms are really short.  I did a much better job inserting this zipper but I will have to figure out how to make it actually invisible.  The final zipper won't be black of course-this is just the one I use for my practice pieces.
  • There is a little bit of rolling going on on the sides. I'm pretty sure that this is because I didn't secure my lining. before trying it on. 

This is officially the most complete test garment I've ever made.  My original plan was just to fit the lining, but I decided to further change the original pattern and I wanted to get a better idea of what that would look like . . . what better time to try something out than in the muslin stage?

The main thing is that I wanted to create that Watters silhouette.  If you recall, it has a pleated band that begins right beneath the bust line and a very full skirt.  My main concern, as always, was whether the full skirt would make me look pregnant so I wanted to test that.  I also wanted to confirm pocket placement and whether or not my seams matched up satisfactorily.
Source: Watters via the Knot
Making this more complete dress has also helped me decide on a quicker method of assembly that cuts down on the sheer amount of fabric that I need to have at my machine at any one time.  Once the skirt portion comes into play, my sewing table and most of the window is buried.   I have a better idea of how much time it will take to cut out, construct, and adjust.  I also know how long I need my bones to be, how much tulle I'll need for the lining ruffle, and when and where to add embellishments.

It's been an instructive experience.  I'll make up a shorter wearable muslin to test out the bodice changes and I'll post about that as well.  Then I'll be ready to start the real deal

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