Tuesday, May 10, 2011

Project Wedding Dress: Muslin Woes

After all the fiddliness of altering the pattern, I was really surprised at how quickly the dress muslin came together.  This might be the easiest pattern I've ever sewed.  The skirt isn't even gathered . . .  and just so you all know, gathering is a pain in the ass.

Here she is in all her cheap cotton glory . . .

Right away, I notice issues that need correction.*

All photos by me unless noted
 First, I made the boning channels just a little too small which means that the boning in the front especially really did not want to lie flat.

Second, my regular strapless bra is just not going to cut it in a top this close fitting.  I need a bustier.  Dammit.

Third, I have way too much room in the top which equals gaping.

Fourth, which you can really see in this side shot (where I apparently was trying to imitate Kate Winslet in Titanic), The bodice is just a little too big which caused a little pleating and blousing at the waist.

Fifth, linebacker shoulders are in full effect.  This shot right here has me considering sleeves.

Sixth, I am either short or the garment industry in general thinks everyone is six feet tall.  This skirt is supposed to be tea length.  On me it's dragging three inches on the floor.

What do you think?  Remember-it's supposed to look like this little number here . . .

I didn't do all the finishing details on a muslin.  That would be crazy since I really need to focus on the foundation and the fit.  So this dress is basically the lining without the tulle ruffle or the horsehair braid to make the skirt stand out.  I also didn't include the pockets in the muslin because I wasn't sure the side seams would match up the way I wanted them to.  The pleating will be an easier detail and it doesn't even necessarily require a pattern.

With a less full skirt and a flower detail, it could be a Mimi.

And I'm thinking that if I just can't deal with my bra situation or my linebacker shoulders, I might go a sleeve option with more coverage, I can add a lightly lined overlay like the Escalante.

The muslin looks like crap but I am very excited because the shape that I want is there and I know how to fix it.  I detached it from the skirt and I'm already making improvements.  I'll show you that travesty later on.

*Now I will only subject you all to my personal lumpiness in the interest of a loftier goal.

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